The Rock Warrior’s Way

Arno Ilgner

Afraid of falling? Feel you climb like a beginner as soon as you’re above that last piece of pro? This is what this book attempts to demystify. The author will teach you how to focus attention and get back in touch with your inner motivation for climbing. It sometimes is a bit abstract and spiritual but many climbers love it. You should read it to know what’s it’s all about and because it translates to many other things than just climbing!

9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes

Dave MacLeod

Scottish legend Dave MacLeod asserts that most people don’t progress because they keep repeating the same mistakes. They are not being held back by a lack of talent but by a lack of motivation, time management and tactical errors. Although the book offers some great pieces of advices it lacks a coherent structure and goes a bit all over the place. Consider reading it as if you were having a conversation with some wise old (and extremely experienced) climber!

The Self-coached climber

Dan Hague, Douglas Hunter

The Self-Coached Climber offers comprehensive instruction, from the basics of gripping holds to specific guidelines for developing a customised improvement plan. The authors say they base their methods on the four fundamental components of all human movement: balance, force, time, and space. It’s a pretty solid theoretical model that might unlock some mental doors for you. It’s certainly a good introduction to better understanding the basic principles of climbing technique and an interesting pathway to more advanced training.

Gimme Kraft!

Patrock Matros, Ludwig 'Dicki' Korb, Hannes Huch

From the superstar trainers at Cafe Kraft (Nürnberg, Germany) comes this collection of super-well illustrated exercises. This book is all about strength – no wonder it opens with a quote from Wolfgang Güllich, Dicki and Patrick’s spiritual father as far as training is concerned. The only annoying thing is that the book is both in German and English which makes it a bit confusing. Essential nonetheless!

The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide

Eric J. Horst

The companion book to “Training for Climbing” and a trove of excellent… exercises! Explanations are clear, all exercises have great photos and there’s something for every climber here, whether you’re just starting out or have been climbing for 20 years.

Training for climbing

Eric J. Horst

The promise of this 334- pages book is to “Train smarter, climb harder”. In 13 well organised chapters, the author will take you through every possible phases of training, often backing its advices with research. It’s well worth having, although if you’re simply looking for exercises you should rather check out “The Rock Climber Exercise Guide” by the same author.

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